[Multi Coated] I've been using the Kolari Vision IR Chrome Lens Filter on my IR full spectrum modified Sony a7iii with the 24mm G-Master lens. In order to achieve the vibrant red foliage colors with realistic blue skies and other colors, it is critical to have the correct custom white balance. At least with the Sony this required some experimentation as the usual gray card setting makes green foliage more orange than red (see photo), and this is very hard to correct in Lightroom. With my Sony, getting vibrant red foliage pushed the hues of other colors off a bit. Your experience may differ as I'm betting it's a function of the color algorithms in the specific camera being used. I did find that desaturating all color channels except blue can be any easy way to get b&w IR images with nice blue skies (see photo). Like all filters, plan to play with it a while to see how it affects your images under various circumstances.

[0.275 lb] Infrared takes a hole lot of experimenting. If you convert a camera I would say make a Full Spectrum Conversion. After that a full set of filters to se your options. This filter is one of the most user friendly filters you can get for it. Have fun with it if you get it.

[4.9 x 4.9 x 1"] Best quality filters for my infrared photography!

[49 mm] I have only tested this filter on my Lifepixel-modified Canon R6 (v1), but I like it already. It produces some really interesting color combinations that my other Lifepixel IR filters do not. Samples below are with custom white balance in-camera.

[Brass] Works great on full spectrum cameras. Lets you get into the deep infrared on 720nm or higher converted cameras.

[49 mm] Shoot aerochrome with you converted full spectrum digital camera. Works like a charm, just set your white balance and trees turn red but keeps the sky blue. No need to sit in front of your computer to swap channels.
Ensure that your lenses do not create hotspots. Some lenses can create spots in the centre of images.

[4.9 x 4.9 x 1"] After long ago exploring IR images with Kodak chemical films, I purchased the Kolari K665Pro and K720Pro to use on a stock Canon EOS 5D Mark IV and Canon lenses. I chose the Kolari Pro series for their sharp cutoff spectra as well as their filter coatings compared to Kolari's base series or Hoya. The Kolari Pro quality / performance / price point trade-offs were great IMHO. Starting with the 665, I set the camera for manual exposure (typically bracketing around +2) and manual focus (typically longer focus settings), and the stock sensors pick up enough red for good composition and control. It has been a short learning curve and I am most pleased with the images that the Kolari filters are generating: awesome black and white landscapes, cloudscapes, and waterscapes, and excellent starting points for post-processed color shots (native red hue or channel swapped)! No discernible color aberration until I push the image magnification to its pixel limits. The coatings have been great with tough lighting angles - no flares - and stay remarkably clean in windy, dusty environments! Continuing experiments with the 720, which pushes the limits of the stock sensors but still works well. Highly recommend the Kolari 665Pro for anyone getting into IR!!!

[Glass] I’m new to IR photography. I’m using a Sony F828 with the magnet hack (Google it) & various external filters. I started with standard filters such as 720nm & 850nm but wanted something to pass more color for a more interesting twist. This 550nm delivers; it was worth the wait. It’s a lot of fun and making me enjoy photography again. There’s a lot of information out there about post-processing. Play with channel swapping (Photoshop channel mixer) to flex your creative muscles.

[Brass] OK if you are not sure if you will use it don't buy it. But if you have a full spectrum camera, this is one of your filters in your IR, UV filter set. Color IR is not for every one but it can be a blast if you find a way to understand what this filter can do for you.

[Glass] This is not a filter to have just for fun. First of all it requires you to have a Full spectrum conversion on your camera. Second of all it is for a very specific use and its price is no joke, so if you don't need it I would spend my money on something else I would use more. But in my case it's been a blast. I will use a lot more my converted camera now that I have it, and just getting started with experimenting out of the users manual I have a lot of ideas to work on with this filter.
The filter only lets through UV light so exposure compensation is required and even under bright sun you will more than likely shoot on a tripod, with high ISO using slow shutter speeds. This filter is a tool, not a toy.