[Brass] High-quality ND instead of VND

[67 mm] I’m new to IR photography. I’m using a Sony F828 with the magnet hack (Google it) & various external filters. I started with standard filters such as 720nm & 850nm but wanted something to pass more color for a more interesting twist. This 550nm delivers; it was worth the wait. It’s a lot of fun and making me enjoy photography again. There’s a lot of information out there about post-processing. Play with channel swapping (Photoshop channel mixer) to flex your creative muscles.

[Brass] OK if you are not sure if you will use it don't buy it. But if you have a full spectrum camera, this is one of your filters in your IR, UV filter set. Color IR is not for every one but it can be a blast if you find a way to understand what this filter can do for you.

[67 mm] I've been using the Kolari Vision IR Chrome Lens Filter on my IR full spectrum modified Sony a7iii with the 24mm G-Master lens. In order to achieve the vibrant red foliage colors with realistic blue skies and other colors, it is critical to have the correct custom white balance. At least with the Sony this required some experimentation as the usual gray card setting makes green foliage more orange than red (see photo), and this is very hard to correct in Lightroom. With my Sony, getting vibrant red foliage pushed the hues of other colors off a bit. Your experience may differ as I'm betting it's a function of the color algorithms in the specific camera being used. I did find that desaturating all color channels except blue can be any easy way to get b&w IR images with nice blue skies (see photo). Like all filters, plan to play with it a while to see how it affects your images under various circumstances.

[67 mm] 4 stop ND but as advertised. Know exactly how many stops used rather than VND with imprecise wheel.

[Glass] Shoot aerochrome with you converted full spectrum digital camera. Works like a charm, just set your white balance and trees turn red but keeps the sky blue. No need to sit in front of your computer to swap channels.
Ensure that your lenses do not create hotspots. Some lenses can create spots in the centre of images.

[Glass] I wanted a 3 stop ND 112mm filter. I found Tokina is really good. I love it and it does perfect pictures.

[Brass] After long ago exploring IR images with Kodak chemical films, I purchased the Kolari K665Pro and K720Pro to use on a stock Canon EOS 5D Mark IV and Canon lenses. I chose the Kolari Pro series for their sharp cutoff spectra as well as their filter coatings compared to Kolari's base series or Hoya. The Kolari Pro quality / performance / price point trade-offs were great IMHO. Starting with the 665, I set the camera for manual exposure (typically bracketing around +2) and manual focus (typically longer focus settings), and the stock sensors pick up enough red for good composition and control. It has been a short learning curve and I am most pleased with the images that the Kolari filters are generating: awesome black and white landscapes, cloudscapes, and waterscapes, and excellent starting points for post-processed color shots (native red hue or channel swapped)! No discernible color aberration until I push the image magnification to its pixel limits. The coatings have been great with tough lighting angles - no flares - and stay remarkably clean in windy, dusty environments! Continuing experiments with the 720, which pushes the limits of the stock sensors but still works well. Highly recommend the Kolari 665Pro for anyone getting into IR!!!

[67 mm] We are using this on the Sony 200-600mm. Image quality is great with no noticeable loss in sharpness, added vignette, or color shift.

[Solid ND] Best high quality filter for my infrared photography!