Japan Camera Hunter StreetPan 400 B&W Film 120 Roll Expired 02/2024is a high-speed panchromatic black and white negative film featuring a nominal sensitivity of ISO 400/27° and a fine grain structure. Using a unique two-layer emulsion, this film is ideal for working in low-light situations and also retains a low grain profile that makes it especially well-suited to scanning. Also distinct, this film has spectral sensitivity to 750nm, which helps to cut through atmospheric haze and fog for greater clarity and contrast. This extended red sensitivity also benefits working in lower light conditions, such as during dawn and dusk, and its wide exposure latitude allows you to rate the film between EI 200-500 for acceptable results. It has low base fog levels when processed at high temperatures, making it suitable for high volume processing, and the emulsion is coated on a 0.10mm-thick transparent polyester base. Additionally, base substrate layers offer permanent anti-static qualities and a gelatin coating has also been applied to the back layer to resist scratching.

This item is one roll of 120-format film, expired on February 2024.

Panchromatic B&W Negative Film    ISO 400/27° in Standard Process    Two-Layer Emulsion, Fine Grain    Wide Exposure Latitude    Extended Spectral Sensitivity to 750nm    Transparent Polyester Base    Anti-Scratch and Anti-Static Coatings

Related Questions and Answers

Q: 1. What developer might produce the least bromide drag using a steel reel in a steel tank?

A: I would consider using Photographers' Formulary Pyrocat HD Film Developer (Dry) - Makes 10 Liters BH #PHPHDFD10L • MFR #01-5080 for this film. But for your bromide drag issue I would not use the stick agitation but rather inversion agitation to help with this issue so you get the chemistry moving well and it does not sit in one place too long causing the bromide build up in areas.

Q: 2. Can I use this film for the Holga camera?

A: If your Holga is a 120 version then yes you can use it.

Q: 3. Is this lightproof?

A: Yes, it will keep extraneous light out.

Q: 4. Is it safe to store film in the freezer with his case? Or should I just the individual canisters they come in by default? I'm worried about condensation getting inside.

A: I would not recommend storing film in the freezer, this case will work fine in the fridge.

Q: 5. Can we ferry it through the x-ray machine in the airport? Is any x-ray pack required?

A: Do not use x ray safety packs, or leave film in checked baggage or in your camera. All of these actions will cause security to be suspicious and raise the power in the x-ray machine to the point that it will fog and thus destroy your unprocessed film. (Processed film is unaffected.) If you have a small amount of film, have it in clear zip lock bags, in the manufacturer's containers and then ask for a hand inspection so that you avoid x-ray all together. If you have a large amount of film, it is strongly recommended that you call security ahead of time so that the process may proceed smoothly. FYI, unprocessed film can go through USA TSA hand carry machines unaffected 1-4 times. 5 or more times or higher ISO may fog.

Q: 6. how many exposures are on this roll?

A: 120 film has 12 exposures when used in a 6x6 camera. With other formats, it is dependent on the format of the camera to determine the number of exposures.

Q: 7. Is the prive given in usd ou cad

A: B&H is an American Company and use USD

Q: 8. I'm developing this film in my darkroom. Usually I use T-max developer. What are you using to develop this film and any info on time and concentrate?

A: Per instructions inside box, I use D-76 developer at 1+1 dilution, 10:50 seconds development time. Great results with this film every time.

Q: 9. Is this safe for storing film in the fridge?

A: Yes, you can use this case in the fridge but putting it in a Ziploc with a desiccant would be ideal.

Q: 10. I have an original vintage Diana-F with the red window centered and at the bottom edge of the back of the camera. I just installed Kodak Portra 400, and I never saw any frame numbers in the red window. Help! Are the numbers not in the right place on Kodak film? Can I assume they are in the right place on Lomo film? Any info on this would be greatly appreciated so I can stop wasting money buying film that doesnt work. Thanks!

A: If you have the original (as opposed to the lomography remake), it might be a different story....and I am a complete newb & could be totally wrong here... but I think if you change it in the back from 12 to 16 (or vice versa) that may solve your problem? At least thats how I went about it. My pictures did turn out all wonky with overlapping frames however (but in a cool way that I loved and would attempt to do again haha). I did see the numbers though!