[Plastic] I like leaving the lens hoods attached to my various lenses and the B+W collapsible hoods are excellent.

[0.185 lb] You can save a few dollars buying Sensei and no-name rubber hoods but with B+W you get better quality rubber and you get reliable, usable front threads with the same filter diameter as the rear threads.


In the front threads of my B+W collapsible hoods I screw on a K&F Concept magnetic ring. On this I place a K&F magnetic CPL. On the CPL I then use a pinch-release Waka lens cap on a lanyard.


To shoot with the CPL the lens cap is removed by pinching allowing the CPL to remain on the camera. After trimming the CPL if I need the hood, I just fold it forward.


To shoot without the CPL, the cap & the magnetic filter are removed as a unit (without pinching the cap) and allowed to hang on the lanyard. No need to find a pocket or other storage place for the CPL.


With lenses wider than 35mm every collapsible hood I've tried will vignette due to the hood's deep frame. Thus I do not use these on lenses wider than 35mm FF (or 23mm in APS-C).

[0.185 lb] If you lose your original, manufacturer's lens hood, it's this one to the rescue!


Save yourself time and money: forget the tulip-type lens hood replacements and get this instead -- especially if you are in a fast-paced shooting environment.


I lost my original lens hood in the field, and got a replacement, non-collapsing tulip lens: a mistake. It would take at least ten minutes of fiddling to get the tulip placement and lock just right. As well, once the tulip lens was in place, I could not attach my lens cap on my lens for hiking between locations, and the rigid form factor was bulky in my already overstuffed, small camera bag. I can guess the reverse-locking tulip lens hoods are great for some who have loads of time and want to look sharp, but for me, for working practicality, the tulip lens hood was a no-go. So it was back to the drawing board.




So I tried this lens hood. This collapsing lens hood screws into place in a matter of seconds. I can use my lens cap on the lens (a metal, screw-on type) while this lens hood is in place. I can collapse the lens hood in place on the lens without ever having to remove it for transporting between locations. This lens hood is well made, but of a soft, collapsing rubber. Stored separately, when collapsed, it takes up 1/4 of the space of the rigid, tulip type.


This lens hood is a winner.

[0.185 lb] Collapsible hood that works with semi-wide angle lenses all the way up to telephoto. Has a matching thread on the front so you can use a matching mm lens hood, unlike some of the cheapies. Not super hard rubber either, so easy to collapse.

[0.185 lb] USEFUL IN BRIGHT SUN LIT SITUATIONS. INEXPENSIVE.

[0.185 lb] I have been critical of this collapsible lens hood because it easily popped out of the holding ring.  That said, I really need this item, and decided to see if I could get it to work as expected.  I installed it on the supplied ring and with my lens cap clicked in I collapsed and extended it a couple of hundred times (not attached to the camera lens) and that exercised the rubber making the rubber more flexible and now it works to my satisfaction.

[0.185 lb] Used for Sony FS7 monitor

[0.185 lb] Very good customer service.Called them with few questions,they were very helpful.

[0.185 lb] When I put this on my camera, it helps a lot, I now use this always

[Bayonet] .....all except the ultra wides.

I always want a lens hood. It's for image quality by excluding stray light and for front element protection. But I also want my CPL filter handy, easy to twist. And I want the front surface of my filters shaded by the hood.

Collapsible hoods go on my lenses. Filters go on the front threads of the hood frame. Having to remove rigid hoods to adjust CPLs is ridiculous (and also leads to hoods disappearing into rivers and over cliffs).

Pay the premium price for B+W hoods. Sensei and generics are inferior. The rubber on the B+W is of better quality, attaches to the hood's frame more securely. B+W front threads are properly cut. Cheaper hoods can have threads in which filters will jam. (In the 67mm size the Sensei's front threads are 62mm!)

Collapsible hoods will vignette below about 28mm fov (full frame). Sensei makes a wide angle model. I bought that Sensei in 52mm for my Loxia 21 and it was fine, but only for a few months and then the rubber would no longer remain on the frame until cemented with Gorilla Glue.

I have switched to K&F Concept Magnetic filters which are easily applied and removed and which avoid thread jamming when stacking filters.


Unfortunately B+W does not offer wide models. On an ultrawide lenses retracting the hood does not suffice because the frame itself intrudes. However I often leave my 77mm B+W hood on my 24-104, knowing that when shooting at 24mm I'll later crop to 16x9 which cuts off the vignetting.

Attached photos show the 52mm B+W on a Loxia 35, with a K&F Magnetic ring in the front threads.