Ilford Hp5 Plus 8x10" Black And White Film
- Product Code: eq315
-
Ilford HP5 Plus 8x10" Black and White Filmis a traditional and versatile black and white panchromatic negative film designed for general use in a wide variety of shooting conditions. Exhibiting notably wide exposure latitude, this film responds well to use in mixed and difficult lighting and provides medium contrast for greater overall control. It has a nominal sensitivity of ISO 400/27° when developed in standard black and white chemistry, and responds well to push processing. HP5 Plus is a flexible film type that is ideally suited for use in general photographic applications in an array of different lighting conditions.
This item is one box of 25 sheets of 8 x 10" film.
Panchromatic B&W Negative Film ISO 400/27° in Standard Process Wide Exposure Latitude, Medium Contrast Ideal for Mixed Lighting and General Use Responds Well to Push Processing
Parameters | |
---|---|
Film Size (W x H) | 8 x 10" / 20.32 x 25.40 cm |
Film Type | Panchromatic B&W Negative |
Film Processing | Standard Black and White Chemistry |
ISO/ASA Film Speed | 400 |
Quantity | 25 Sheets |
Packaging Info | |
Package Weight | 1.39 lb |
Box Dimensions (LxWxH) | 10.8 x 9.1 x 0.7" |
Related Questions and Answers
Q: 1. Is it okay to open the box in daylight? Are the film sheets protected enough inside the wrappers in the box?
A: I would advise against opening a box of film in daylight.
Q: 2. What is expiration date of this film?Thank you.
A: Unfortunately, we do not have access to our inventory and cannot provide this type of information; however, any film that was within 6-months of its expiration date would be sold as short dated and listed as such on our site. All other film will be at least 6 months out from its expiration date.
Q: 3. The product description mentions that this film can be pushed to ISO 3200. Would the results be similar to the Ilford ISO 3200 (120) film, which I use for medium format? I do a lot of night photography (available light - no flash) and was wondering what kind of results I would get with this 4x5 film if pushed to ISO 1600 or even ISO 3200. Thinking of moving to 4x5, but I want to hear what people have to say about the film pushed to 1600 or 3200. Thanks!
A: HP5 is rated 400, which means it's actually around a 200 ASA film. I use it all the time, and NEVER push it. If you're working with a 4 x 5 camera (or a pinhole) you are on a tripod and should not really need to push it. I believe it is still possible to find Delta 3200 in 4x5, which is what I would recommend if you want to shoot in really low light.
Q: 4. Can this film be processed in a red lit dark room?
A: Yes, the Ilford HP5 Plus Black and White Negative Film (35mm Roll Film, 36 Exposures) can be developed in a darkroom lit by safelights.
Q: 5. how many exposures are there in this film?
A: The number of exposures you can get from a roll of 120 film will depend on the format of the camera you are using. If your camera is 6 x 4.5, there are 15 or 16 exposures; 6 x 6 cameras will get 12/13 exposures, 6 x 7 cameras get 10 exposures, 6 x 8 cameras will get 9 exposures, and so forth.
Q: 6. With the 70mm Roll film, it does not have backing paper, can this not be loaded in daylight / subdued light?
A: It is exactly like bulk 35mm film only twice as wide.You need either a 70mm bulkloader or a really clean changing bag to load it into the 70mm cassette. And of course you need a 70mm camera or back. The real showstopper is tracking down a development tank. If you don't know all this stuff and have the equipment already this is not for you. I would buy this if there were a smaller minimum quantity.
Q: 7. How long does it usually take to ship?
A: You may calculate your actual shipping options/order totals by adding the items you want to a shopping cart. It will then list the shipping options, descriptions, ETA's and fees to your location.
Q: 8. Is this the bricks of 10 packaging or is this really MFR # 1574616 (as the description says) which are 50 FOIL-WRAPPED films? That does make a difference to me traveling... Thanks!
A: the bricks of 10 are not foil wrapped. the film rolls are in plastic canisters.
Q: 9. First time I've bought film not in a roll. Using it in a pinhole camera. How does it come packaged? Is each sheet in its own lightproof sleeve or is it all bundled in one lightproof sleeve? I ask because I need to put it into 5x7 film holders in the dark and I want to know what to expect. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I have a darkroom with a red light bulb I can dim way down. Should that be okay for processing in trays?
A: Sheet film is packaged in a trip box..... The 25 sheets of film will be in a black plastic bag and then contained within a box with an additional lid. The combination of black plastic bag and the double-boxing keeps the film light tight. Sheet film comes with a notch code in the top corner. If you are loading your holders with the opening flap at the top; the notch code should be in the top right corner when loading. Film is panchromatic so it must be loaded and processed in complete darkness. Your red safelight can only be used when making contact prints.
Q: 10. If I stop a roll before I use each film shot how can I reinsert it to finish the shots?
A: Every film shooter runs into the situation where the film in the camera is not the right one. However, there are be too many exposures left to waste. What to do? If you shoot say 20 exposures, you can rewind the film back into the canister and reload with a different film. Then you can go back to the roll you shot 20 exposures and finish the roll. Here is how to do it. Release the film advance mechanism and slowly rewind the film. You must listen and feel for the film releasing from the take up spool. The moment you feel/hear that click/pop, stop rewinding. You can open the camera back and you will have the film tab visible. Tape the tab to the film canister and write how many exposures have been made on the roll. Make this this mark big and obvious. You do not want to load this roll into the camera at a later time and think there is a full roll. If you do that, you will double expose all the previously shot images. If you misjudge and rewind the film all the way back into the canister, you can use a 6" piece of film (you can use processed but junk negative film you probably have in your collection) and put some double faced tape on one end. Shove that end into the canister through that black felt opening and hook the end of the film with the double face tape and pull it out. Or you can use this product to fish the film out. Kaiser 35mm Film retriever B&H # KAFRZ Now put the film back in the container it came in and mark it with the type of film and exposures taken. This is more safety to prevent messing up. When it comes time to reload the exposed film, take the tape and put it on the back of the camera so the number of exposures is big and obvious and thread the film as normal. Now here is the trick. You must have a lens cap on or no lens but a body cap on. Put the aperture to the highest number, the shutter to the highest number and also find a dark room. This is because in order to get past the exposed frames you have to fire the camera the same number times but you do not want to double expose the previously shot frames. Fire the camera and advance the film the number of exposures you have shot plus two more. Now remove the lens cap, set the exposure and shoot the rest of the roll. This sounds more complicated then it is. Rest assured, this is a legitimate procedure. Just be careful otherwise you risk double exposing your film. If you have just two or three exposures left, this procedure is not worth it. Use them up on your family pet. They will thank you.
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