[0.15 lb] this is a good filter. I've used 81A filters for years. I know lots of people don't like 'em but this helps punch up my images besides warming them a tad. I use these on most of my outside lenses.

[0.15 lb] I use this on my film camera that I use entirely for black and white photography. Not a strong polarizing filter, but the filter factor is 2 (i.e. exactly 1 stop) which makes compensation easy.

[0.15 lb] A nice slim filter in new condition.


Contrary to what is often supposed by younger photographers, the 81B balancing filter is the best way of dealing with shade or overcast lighting in digital photography, as opposed to changing WB to accommodate those conditions. The human eye does not detect the blue, but it's there all the same. It also works well for backlit subjects that are effectively in shade, improving the tonality: the subject will be lightened & warmed, and to avoid overall overexposure gentle underexposure may be set. Pleasing people-pictures in what amounts to mixed lighting are one effect. The lighting in Interior shots is frequently shade, while any exterior lighting within the frame is sunlight or daylight, so the same remarks apply.


If the interior lighting is Fluorescent of course an FL-Day with WB set to Daylight works the same as a warming filter; but this is perhaps not quite the spot for that observation.


I use warming nowadays for all my c. 5000K landscape shots, not to cut UV to which the electronic sensor is insensitive, but to cut the haze in distance (which is by no means all visible to my eye-brain combo), define clouds and darken blue sky. That way what I saw is more nearly what I get.


The WB should of course be set to Daylight every time, the meter will take care of the quite modest factor.

[Glass] I use the 81B all the time on my DSLRs with the WB set to daylight, for scenics where it cuts haze, for flash, backlit and in-shade people-pictures, and in overcast. The light-loss is small and the effect seldom if ever too warm.

Incidentally other colour-correcting/-balancing filters are still useful, keeping the same daylight WB. That setting is right for interiors lit by incandescent or fluorescent, with an 80A or FL-Day over the lens. Those two really come into their own with mixed lighting, e.g. an interior with daylight coming through the windows.

B&H's price was reasonable and the shipping prompt and efficient.

[Glass] The use of an 81A warming filter was recommended to me by a pro photographer and this lens by Tiffen did not disappoint. It really enhanced the contrast between a blue sky and the images. With good lighting, the addition of this lens made some of the images appear as though it was 3-D. The lens was clear and crisp. This was a great addition.

[0.15 lb] This is exactly what you would expect... a thin, gelatin filter that is extremely fragile. I wouldn't recommend any gelatin filter if it is going to be exposed to the elements... too fragile. Wratten filters are engineered with very high qc standards and are recognized as such by the fact that many scientific laboratories utilize Wratten filters for their optical equipment. If you have a need for a filter that passes or restricts specific frequencies, I would suggest purchasing a Kodak filter guidebook so you know exactly which filters will satisfy your needs, and then buying the corresponding Wratten filter. If you don't have such exacting needs, you may be better off going with a filter system such as Cokin, where they will be slightly more durable.

[Glass] I used this with Rosco polarizing filter sheets on my soft boxes to photograph framed artwork and glare from the glass was eliminated.

[81A] The 77mm 81A filter is a much better choice then a standard UV lens. Creates warmer tones and brighter colors on overcast days or when shooting with an electronic flash. I'm extremely happy with this filter. I'm using it on a Nikkor 12-24 1:4 G ED Lens.

[0.15 lb] Works well.

[Glass] Professional photography usage. Solid and secure when attached. Crystal clear and easy to clean.