2.5 1Tb Sata Class 20 Solid State Drive

[Plastic] It fits the Samsung 1TB 860 EVO SATA III 2.5 Internal SSD drive perfectly and work great as an external drive for photo editing on a Mac.

[1x 2.5"] mounted Samsung 2TB 870 EVO Sata 2.5 inch drive - fit perfectly and the tray adapter fit perfectly into the computer drive subchassis slide

[8 x 5.9 x 0.8"] Just snap a 2.5 SATA drive into the slots, then press it past the rubber support and you are ready to connect a new drive to your USB slot!

[Black] I had been looking for a reasonable priced enclosure for a 2.5 SATA drive to use as a backup drive for my laptop. This one fits the bill! Kind of odd that it has a USBA connector, but that doesn't affect its operation.

[1x 120 mm Fan] I have this connected by USB 3.0 to a Asustor AS5304T 4-bay NAS. Setting it up was easy after the supplied USB cable broke as soon as I went to use it. First test was installing 1tb WD hhd's, works fine. Then I decided to see if I could figure out a way to install 2.5 ssd's. I found on Thingiverse a 3D model of a drive adapter that I could print and use. Made that and put a Crucial MX500 1tb ssd on it. This was able to be inserted into a bay and recognized. That works. BTW - These drive so far were NTFS. Here is where it I had an issue. I tried installing a 2.5 Seagate 5tb hhd formatted with a NTFS volume. This did not work. The Sabrent station changed it to show up as a GPT protective partition. I next installed A WD 4tb hhd and got the same results. After googling this problem I found that someone had contacted Sabrent about it and the suggested to do a low level format. I know that doing this would tie up a drive for ages before completion. Here is what I did: 1. In Windows I used Diskpart and performed a Clean. Then used Disk Management, initialized the disk and did a simple exFat volume. This worked on the drives I wanted to use that were over 1tb. Why? I did more reading and from what I understand is that it has to do with the disk sector sizes. This I don't need to understand for I only care about getting to a usable enclosure with larger drives. I have even read elsewhere that some people got so frustrated that they put it aside to collect dust. I hope this helps them. Overall, I am please with this product except for that junky USB cable.

[2.5"] I used this drive to clone a laptop hard drive to a solid state drive. Worked well.

[260 MB/s] VERY CAREFUL WITH THE HITS WHEN YOU ARE WORKING, IT IS NOT A SOLID STATE HARD DRIVE

[Aluminum] This mounting kit worked well when converting my iMac from a hard drive to a solid state drive.

[0.05 lb] This cable was used to install an extra solid state drive in a 2011 iMac. It is very versatile and with a minor modification, it worked perfectly.

[Integrated] This is my first MACBook. It is expensive and can not be upgraded after purchase - two big bummers. But it works flawlessly and has all the speed I was hoping for. I use it to create giant panoramas in Photoshop, starting with as many as 15 exposures. What took as much as 15 minutes to process now takes a few seconds. I have a lot of PSB files, gigantic. They save in less than a minute rather than 20. At home, I operate it clam shell style. I had no problem hooking the MACBook up to larger, calibrated screens, though I had to buy a boatload of converters. One way I could have saved money would have been to have purchased a much smaller solid state drive; maybe one TB. No solid state drive is big enough to hold all my photos. So, purchasing a conventional, inexpensive peripheral drive was necessary anyway. A harddrive that is configured for both PCs and MACS turned out to be the best way to go; though now I have about 3TB of unused solid state drive on the MACBook, a waste of money.