Diy Collapsible Projector Screen Frame

[Yes] Purchased the 135 yard master 2 projector screen for the purpose of outdoor viewing. The frame is lightweight and set up was really easy. Something of importance to me because this screen will be taken down and assembled alot. The screen looks great. Colors are vibrant and the quality of the item is fantastic. The screen and frame aren't flimsy like some of the cheap brands out there.My only regret is that I wish I would've purchased a bigger one. there. Highly recommend this screen.

[1.1] We use this projector screen in our church activities.

[Thread] i like collapsible hoods, they are - collapsible! and when your lens hits a door frame, they double as a bumper. and they are cheap.

[12 x 7 x 1"] I made a DIY PVC pipe frame to go with this and it really works great for outdoor portrait sessions.

[Polyester] Wonderful bargain, as the collapsible metal frame alone is worth the cost paid. You will need a fairly large space free of clutter to connect the frame that is much larger than it appears in the carrying case. The backdrop stretches nice & tight via clips over the metal frame. Thus, no problem with wrinkles that can be an issue when using other backdrops. Took about 25-30 minutes my first time putting the frame together and clipping the backdrop on frame after mistakenly clipping the vertical side horizontally. The material is much lighter than a hand painted backdrop would normally be. Minor drawback is light source can seep through from behind if one is shooting away from a wall or strong backlight source. Lightweight easy to pick up and move throughout the studio.

[Bayonet] .....all except the ultra wides. I always want a lens hood. It's for image quality by excluding stray light and for front element protection. But I also want my CPL filter handy, easy to twist. And I want the front surface of my filters shaded by the hood. Collapsible hoods go on my lenses. Filters go on the front threads of the hood frame. Having to remove rigid hoods to adjust CPLs is ridiculous (and also leads to hoods disappearing into rivers and over cliffs). Pay the premium price for B+W hoods. Sensei and generics are inferior. The rubber on the B+W is of better quality, attaches to the hood's frame more securely. B+W front threads are properly cut. Cheaper hoods can have threads in which filters will jam. (In the 67mm size the Sensei's front threads are 62mm!) Collapsible hoods will vignette below about 28mm fov (full frame). Sensei makes a wide angle model. I bought that Sensei in 52mm for my Loxia 21 and it was fine, but only for a few months and then the rubber would no longer remain on the frame until cemented with Gorilla Glue. I have switched to K&F Concept Magnetic filters which are easily applied and removed and which avoid thread jamming when stacking filters. Unfortunately B+W does not offer wide models. On an ultrawide lenses retracting the hood does not suffice because the frame itself intrudes. However I often leave my 77mm B+W hood on my 24-104, knowing that when shooting at 24mm I'll later crop to 16x9 which cuts off the vignetting. Attached photos show the 52mm B+W on a Loxia 35, with a K&F Magnetic ring in the front threads.

[60 x 10 x 5"] I was wanting to buy one of these for years and never could justify the cost but after getting one I wish I would have got one years ago. The ridged frame makes it so much brighter than the usual collapsible reflectors. And wind is not longer a factor and so much easier for someone to aim and keep the light where it needs to go.

[ABS] I installed them next to my projector screen and they sound great.

[27" (16:9)] Glad it fitted inside the screen frame and was not cumbersome!

[1x HDMI Male] Anyone looking to extend there monitor onto a TV screen or projector this is the way to go.